Bouldering is a sport that is gaining more traction. As with that, we see an increasing amount of different types of holds. Some bigger and shinier than the other. But, how do you approach them?
Let me tell you about the basics of crimps. slopers. jugs, pockets and pinchers.
May it help you in reading routes better and be nice to your fingers to prevent them from getting injured.
Jugs: your best friend
Jugs are holds with plenty of space for your fingers to grab in to. Like a litte cup. It's fairly easy to hold on to and it's by far the best hold to pull yourself up on. You will usually find them in lower graded problems or as a finishhold. Avoid: Pulling yourself up on all the jugs. It does make you stronger, but it's very inefficient and you're neglecting technique.
Do: Look at the position of the positive side of the hold to figure out the beta. Or, in normal
people language, check where the cup is before starting the climb.
Extra tip: juggy boulders are perfect for warm-ups!
Slopers: your toughest teachers
Slopers are those round holds with nothing to grab on to. Most beginners tend to avoid these big units. Understandable, because it's less obvious how to approach them. But the inconvenient truth is: they are your best teachers. If you try forcing a movement that's not in line with this hold, you'll get nothing but frustration and pumped arms. However, if you use proper technique, you will find slopers to be a lot of fun in providing you with a whole new range of movements AND better climbing on the long run. Dubble winning.
Avoid: Grabbing the edge and pulling yourself up. If you do, you're in for a bad time.
Do: Keep your body underneath this hold as much as possible. Hang from them with
active shoulders for extra points.
Extra tip: Use the entire surface of your hand for maximum friction
Crimps: on your fingertips
These are little slats - or ridges- that have you hang on them with just your fingertips. You find them on most fingerboards as well. And with good reason. They ask a lot of pure fingerstrength from a climber. Then again, they are perfect for gaining strength as well.
Avoid: Pulling on tiny crimps when you've just (re-)started climbing. Your tendons need time
to get used to your new passion and to build up strength.
Do: Grab crimps with ALL your fingers. If you start pulling from only two fingers, you increase
your chances of getting injured.
Extra tip: start with wider crimps and gradually move to smaller, narrower ones.
Pinchers: squeeze it
Pinchers are like two-sided crimps. You practically sqeeze these holds to use them for climbing. In general, people with big hands have an advantage here, because the better you can wrap your hand around the hold, the fimer you can pinch it.
Avoid: grabbing on to them without your thumb. When you place your fingers on one side and your thumb on the other side, you can put out the most possible force on the pincher.
Do: Try as many different sizes as possible to get used to the technique.
Extra tip: Push your fingers together while pinching to avoid putting a lot of pressure on individual fingers.
Pockets: choose wisely
Pockets are holds with a round space cut out which gives room for only one (or two) fingers. Like a tiny pocket. If you're lucky, they are pretty deep. If you're onto higher grades, they might be slopy (like tiny slopers) or undeep. It's pretty clear what this hold wants from you. But how do you do it?
Avoid: dynamic movement towards these hold. Only one finger can hold on to this hold. You can imagine what happens to this finger when all you bodyweight is sunddenly dependent on it as you land on it from a big jump.
Do: gradually put more and more weight on the finger until you feel confident and comfortable in holding this position. Extra tip: If you have to choose one finger; use your middle finger. It's closest to your wrist and underarm and therefore stronger.
I hope this short guide gave you more insights on the different kinds of holds you find at your gym and how to approach them. As always: listen to your body, have fun and be kind.
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